frequently
asked questions...
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Q1. How many guitar models are you
building now?
A. Currently, the
SBJ and by popular demand my
"
MasterCaster", which is a two pick-up,
natural-alder,
no-trem strat (lead-humbucker and a singlecoil-ryhthm; switch-option,
volume, tone and bag:
$1,500).
I am still in the "design" stage of a parlor-nylon-string that i hope
to get off the ground before i pass away...
Q2. Why no tone control on the SBJ?
A. Many jazz players "hide" behind the tone control, losing the
character or personality of their instrument. The SBJ should be
approached like an acoustic guitar, where you use your own
technique and the extensive timbres that lie along the string length.
The SBJ has a beautiful natural voice that will find you!
Q3. I understand that you do not offer ebony for a fingerboard?
A. Yes, this is true. Many premium guitars do use an ebony fingerboard,
but I do not, for two reasons: First, ebony is much more unpredictable
than quartered rosewood. Second, it changes the attack, in a direction
that I prefer to avoid.
Q4. Do you have any Amp suggestions for your guitar?
A. This is a good question, considering that the amp is very
important to the sound! All tube
is a handsome
rule
of thumb... older Fender amps (in good shape and some re-issues),
like
the Vibrolux Reverb or Twin Reverb are great. A Peavy Classic-30 is
cheap and sounds terrific.
In
quiet settings the EL84 power tubes
on this amp tend to develop a small annoying rattle, but it's a
very good deal! Most current Solid State amps are designed around
over-drive
modeling, bells, whistles and more power for less cost, but the clean
sound
on most of them is usually very "stiff" and less desirable. The
exception to this rule, at present, is the Berenger "V-Tone" guitar amp
series, which still has the "bells and whistles", but the clean channel
uses a "valve (tube) emulation" circuit which sounds surprisingly
acceptable!
Q5. Can you clarify some of the confusion over the Fender Blues Jr. amp?
A. Yes, I used to highly recommend this modest Fender-all tube-amp for
a low watt, kick butt, fat-sounding-little-jazz amp, but this is sadly,
no longer the case. The current version in production ("cream board")
is still a decent little amp, but the sound is
very different from the pre-1999
"greenboard" rev. that I used to recommend! Apparently, someone with
clout at Fender, decided that the "greenboard" EQ was "too dark" and
the engineers completely changed the lovely sweet character of the amp.
Fortunately, the back plate comes off with 6 simple screws, to easily
reveal a "green" (nice, nice) or "cream" (no, no) circuit board.
So, buyer beware!
Q6. Are you the inventor of
"The
Froc
Pick" ?
A. Yes, I developed and patented the Froc-T3-Pick, back in
The Guitar Clinic days (1982). I still
have a small private stash of T-3 picks left, but unfortunately, not
enough to market. Some time ago, my manufacturer lost my mold
, so bye, bye!
recently asked questions...
Q7. Froc, what is a "set-up" for guitar?
A. Ok, This just might be informative!
Guitars are made primarily of wood and that's good, because wood is
very strong, yet it will "adjust" and yeild according to
Hot/damp-Cold/dry conditions. In the North-East, the weather dynamic is
extra wide, so periodic adjustments are necessary, in order to keep a
nice guitar in proper playing condition... this is especially important
for premium, acoustic, solid-wood guitars! A musical instrument
cannot be ignored or neglected, otherwise cumulative damage can result.
Any precision device requires periodic maintenance. So, a
"set-up" for guitar (or bass), is like a "tune-up" for a car... It is
perhaps the single most important thing you can do to maintain the
value, longevity, and pleasure from your musical investment. "Set-ups"
usually come in two flavors: MINOR and MAJOR(Full/Complete), generally
costing from $50 (Minor) to $100 (Major) - this does vary from one
region to another (it is considerably higher in NYC).
•My Minor Set-up procedures: Lube & clean fingerboard
and hardware; Tighten all parts; Adjust truss rod, nut, action (for the
Hot or Cold season); Set pickups and vibrato (if applicable); Set
intonation (string length compensation for accurate tuning, if bridge
will allow); Restring and polish...
•My Major Set-up procedures: All of the above, plus: "Dress"
(level), crown (round off), polish and smooth all frets to eliminate
any excessive buzzing, sharp or worn frets and "dead notes". My
"set-up" turn around time is one week, unless by appointment...
At the very least, a Minor Set-up, should be scheduled once a year. If
you are a pro, you should seriously consider alternating each flavor
every six months...
Even a new guitar can require at least a minor set-up - which may be
included with your initial purchase, but it's up to you, to see that it
follows a "seasonal" schedule, because after a month or so, they are
generally not covered under factory warranty.